INTERVIEW WITH HENRY HALES OF SIRPLUS
Written by Menswear Style in Interviews on the 12th March 2020
Written by Menswear Style in Interviews on the 12th March 2020
Having studied Real Estate at university, a life in menswear is probably not the most obvious career choice to follow on to. However, Henry Hales, owner of menswear brand SIRPLUS, found the shift to be quite an organic one. Here we speak to Henry about what motivated the birth of his stylish, easy-to-wear label and how the journey has played out so far.
"I studied Real Estate at Oxford Brookes. It wasn’t very creative, but I’d be lying if I said I hated it. It was pretty diverse. There was architecture and sustainability modules and lots of the elements that I learned, have been relevant to starting SIRPLUS, including property law."
"The plan was to always try my hand at SIRPLUS - a boxer short brand made using surplus fabrics - hence the name of the business. If that went wrong, the plan was to start something else. I’ve always wanted to do my own thing."
"I thought there was a gap for well-made men’s underwear. I started doing my research, learning about the manufacturing process and became aware of the huge amounts of surplus fabrics left after factories have cut their orders. I spoke with a shirtmaker on Jermyn Street and realised that often bespoke shirt-makers use the surplus fabric to make underwear for clients. The shirting was supreme quality, available on my doorstep and in small runs. Hence SIRPLUS was born. My first order was for around 100 pairs."
"I remember quite clearly. It was Sunday, March 20th 2011 at Spitalfields market in London. It would be a couple more years from this date before we got any real momentum though!"
"I thought the brand would stay in boxer shorts and become the biggest and best player in the market. However, I quickly became aware of other really amazing surplus fabrics and couldn’t resit making it up into new products. - the rest, they say, is history."
"It’s essential. It’s in our DNA. The whole business is built around the re-purpose of fabrics that weren’t being used. As we grew, we started to buy fabric from the mills, but surplus still makes up a big proposition of the range. We use organic fabrics, natural buttons and recyclable packaging across everything we create. We are planning to make our Portobello store a 'SIRPLUS 2nds', where people can return their worn SIRPLUS garments and receive credit on new ones."
"The style is simple and easy to wear. Well tailored shapes and with excellent quality fabrics and trimmings. For us, craftsmanship is essential and we have worked with our suppliers for a very long time. Originally, we focussed on products that could be made using only surplus fabrics such as the boxers, caps and sleeveless jackets. However, now we make a range wide enough for most men to see something they like."
"I think the fashion industry finds itself at quite an interesting time. Fundamentally, as an industry (and even a world), we need to consume less."
"We also have shops in Princes Arcade, Angel, Chelsea and a pop-up in Marylebone."
"Mostly in the UK. We also work with manufacturers in Portugal, Italy and Romania. I would like to keep as much as possible in the UK, but as we grow, it does become difficult to find the right production for all our range."
"We focus on a particular style, like our Nehru jackets and our grandad shirts, and try to really nail that. Rather than recreating completely new shapes every year."
"We are at around 12 people now, which is amazing to think considering how we started."
"In terms of fashion I really admire Margret Howell, the lifespan and resurgence of Birkenstock, and the luggage manufacturer Rimowa."
"I’m not looking to be the biggest menswear brand in the business overnight. If we can keep steady growth, improve our product range and our systems as well as adding a shop here and there, then I’ll be happy."